Hunting for the first fireflies, and eating homemade strawberry ice cream. I guess there's no denying it; summer is here.
The other night, just as the sun was going down, we came home from a gathering of friends. As we entered the garden, N and E spotted the first flickers and flashes, and they were off. D, who moments before had been anxious to get the kids upstairs, sat down on the porch; without saying a word, we paused to take it all in.
It would be fun to say that we celebrated by eating homemade strawberry ice cream, but that happened earlier, at a barbecue. The version we shared with our friends was quite good; with a little more tweaking, we now have our go-to strawberry ice cream.
This recipe is based on the one in my fall back cookbook, The New Basics (which is definitely not 'new" any more). It calls for a custard base; if you find that as challenging as I do, and you'd rather not ruin lots of eggs, use the trick recommended in the cookbook and make the custard in the microwave as described below. You'll find yourself making ice cream every week, and Michael Pollan will understand.
The distinction of this recipe is the touch of creme de cassis (black currant liqueur). It was a hit with kids and adults alike--it's especially good with freshly baked brownies.
Homemade Strawberry Ice Cream (Adapted from The New Basics by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins)
Custard base:
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
4 egg yolks (we save and freeze our egg whites for waffles, angel food cake, and omelettes)
1/2 cup sugar
Strawberry ribbon:
2 cups sliced strawberries (somewhat more than 1 pint of whole berries)
1/4 cup sugar
Flavoring: creme de cassis (I prefer 2 T, but the original recipe calls for 1/4 cup)
----------------------------------
To make the strawberry ribbon:
Slice the strawberries into bite-sized pieces until you have 2 cups' worth. This should be somewhat more than a pint of whole strawberries. (The original recipe calls for a pint, but that was a deemed a little skimpy by our friends!)
Combine with 1/4 cup sugar in a small saucepan; heat just to boiling and then remove it from the stove and stir. Cool, then store in the refrigerator.
----------------------------------
To make the custard:
In an electric mixer on medium high speed, cream the egg yolks and 1/2 cup of sugar until well-blended. (Keep the mixture in the mixing bowl; you'll be using the mixer it to combine with the hot milk.)
There are two ways to take the next step: the microwave method, or the stove top method. I've done it both ways, and I've found it's much harder to screw up using the microwave.
1. Microwave method.
Combine the milk and cream in a 2 quart microwave-safe dish. Cook uncovered for 2 minutes in a carousel microwave. (If yours is less powerful and doesn't have a turntable, like mine, cook 4 minutes, rotating the dish midway.)
With the mixer running on low, slowly pour the hot milk into the eggs. If you add it too quickly, the eggs will curdle and you'll have scrambled eggs.
Pour the mixture back into the 2 quart microwave dish. Cook in the microwave until it "coats the back of the spoon," which is 2 minutes for a high-powered microwave, and as much as 8 minutes in a low-powered one like mine. As you cook the custard, check every 2 minutes and rotate the dish if you don't have a carousel; do not overcook. The custard (and not the foam on top) should coat the back of a spoon when it's ready.
2. Stove top method.
Ideally, you will use a double boiler and a candy thermometer for this method.
Combine the milk and cream in the top of your double boiler; cook on the stove over medium heat until just steaming--don't let it get too hot.
With the mixer running on low, slowly pour the hot milk into the eggs. If you add it too quickly, the eggs will curdle and you'll have scrambled eggs.
Pour the mixture back into the top of your double boiler. Heat the mixture over boiling water, stirring constantly. If you're using a candy thermometer, keep checking to make sure you're below 180 degrees. My custard doesn't thicken until it reaches 180, but you may find it thickens before it reaches that temperature.
----------------------------------
Your custard is thick enough when it "coats the back of a wooden spoon." Don't be confused by the foamy mixture which is thin and runny.
Take your cooked mixture and set in a bowl of ice water. Stir for a couple of minutes and then chill the mixture in the fridge. I've found I must chill ice cream bases at least 5 hours or more--overnight is best--or the ice cream just won't set firmly enough in the ice cream maker.
After the custard base is sufficiently chilled, stir in the strawberries and creme de cassis. Pour into your ice cream maker and follow the machine's instructions.
We store our ice cream in loaf pans lined with parchment paper.
